Just a short delay

We were really looking forward to having visitors next week and then the Sydney - Hobart etc but one shouldn't get too far ahead.  Apparently the second prostate operation ( to fix up the first one) has meant that Ray needs to rest for a couple of months and what better place to rest than Ormiston Springs.  We are now grounded at least till the next cardiologist appointment on 16th January.

We really appreciate the following out there and look forward to more adventures in January.

Keep smiling
Ray and Sally

Maria Island

Once again, it's so difficult to cull the photos because Maria Island is nothing if not photogenic.  Click on a photo to enlarge it.

Painted Cliffs, on Island's west side

One of the many walking tracks through the Island

Ray's favoured panoramas, allow you to see more of the scenery!

One of the many beautiful beaches we walked

Panorama from a walking track

Our isolated splendour at French's Farm, down among the wombats

Penitentiary accommodation on last night, luckily re-roofed

Looking towards Darlington harbour, with convict-built Commissariat

How beautiful is this wombat?

Sally, Zane and Stan, dinner on our last night in our Penitentiary room

View of the cliffs east of Fossil Bay

Fossil Bay cliffs - fossilised shells 180 million years old just lying around!

Penguin resting in its nest - sorry Katrina, we weren't allowed to bring it home

Darlington, the only "civilisation" on the island

This needs no caption - but it's about 100 old

Handsome young Cape Barren Geese which abound around Darlington

Well, how to encapsulate 4 wonderful days walking Maria Island, without writing a book!  Briefly, Maria is virtually two islands joined by a long sand isthmus.  The northern section includes 2 of the most distinctive peaks on the island, Mt Maria and Bishop and Clerk. The southern section of the island is much lower.  The island contains features from many geological ages; the oldest rocks on the island, on the lower south west slopes of Mt Maria and in the centre of the south island,were formed around 430 million years ago.  The distinctive headlands of Mistaken Cape and Cape Maurouard are both composed of granite, the major rock type running down the whole east coast of Tasmania.   Sandstone layers, seen at Painted Cliffs, were formed around 220 million years ago during the Triassic Period.  Mt Maria and Bishop and Clerk are composed of dolerite; and in the last 10,000 years rising sea levels at the end of the last ice age separated Maria Island from mainland Tasmania.

The more recent history of the island is both intriguing and complex.  Abel Tasman sighted the island in 1642 naming it in honour of the wife of Anthony Van Diemen.  Tobias Furneaux and Captain James Cook also sighted the island, however it was Englishman Captain Cox aboard the Mercury who became the first European to land on the island.  The French explorer Nicholas Baudin later explored and charted Maria Island, and less than a decade later the island was selected as an English penal settlement, even before Port Arthur.

There were two penal settlements established on Maria, the first 1825-32 and the second as a probation station 1842-50.  In 1884 an Italian entrepreneur, Diego Bernacchi, arrived and commenced a variety of industries such as wine, silk, cement, timber, fishing and even tourism (see plaque above!)  Despite much hard work and outlay of money, the economic climate of the 1890s took its toll, and operations ceased in 1896.  However, Bernacchi had a second attempt at developing the island in 1920, with the formation of the National Portland Cement Company, but with the unreliability of limestone quality and the looming Great Depression, production ceased in 1930.

Darlington's population dwindled and the island returned mainly to sheep and cattle-grazing by families including the Howells, Robeys and Frenchs (and thereby hangs another tale, with lots of interesting research and reading if you are so incined).

In 1972 the island was proclaimed a National Park with a marine extension in 1991.

So, having the potted history out of the way, we can now commence our 4-day walk.

In Ray's usual fashion, he impulsively booked an ambitious 4-day walk on the island with Adventure Seekers, based in Hobart.  Our 2 guides, Stan (the owner) and Zane (a young man knowledgeable about all things Maria) met us in Triabunna where we threw our hastily gathered clothes into their packs and then stood by while they loaded all the gear necessary for our time on the island onto the Island ferry, which was also laden with what seemed like hundreds of bikes for those people going over for the day.  Bikes certainly wouldn't have done us any good on some of the tracks we walked, or on the long, white sand beaches.

Our first day's walk was probably the longest, from Darlington past the Painted Cliffs, to Four Mile Beach then on to French's Farm, an abandoned farm house which gives shelter to walkers and campers, and where Zane worked his magic with a delicious prawn risotto for dinner, using just 2 small gas burners and 2 pots.  Stan demonstrated his culinary skills on the second night with a salmon, asparagus and cream pasta - again all with 2 burners and 2 pots!  We couldn't have eaten better at the Ritz!

Ray was deliberating about the second day's walk, but Stan convinced him to try it, and we had a wonderful day tracking down the isthmus to Robey's Farm, another abandoned farm with a fascinating history.  We ate lunch on the verandah there before trekking back to French's Farm for a second night in our isolated tent.  I know I bang on a bit about wombats, especially the lovely tame ones at Wilson's Promontory, but it was fantastic to watch all the wombats on their night's sorties from their burrows (and to hear them munching around the tent at night, seeming right next to our heads).  Naturally they are not as tame as those at Wilson's Prom, but they seem to have the mistaken idea that if they can't see you, then you can't see them, and if you do happen to get too close, they simply stick their heads into a patch of bracken and present you with their ample rump.

Our third day's walking was a return to Darlington on the inland track past Ned Ryan's Hill, Monah Hill and Marra Hill.  Stan assured us that it was an "easy" track but there was still a fair bit of uphill in it in places.  We chose not to climb Mt Maria (ask Ray!) and arrived back at Darlington with Stan to find that Zane had relocated all our belongings to one of the large penitentiary cells, had laid out our sleeping bags on the bunks and lit a huge fire.  That night was BBQ night (don't ask how or where all this food and wine came from?) and then we settled down in our warm cell, which in the "olden" days would have housed 33 men - and no fire.  The nights on Maria had been really cold, as was the last one, but we were toasty and slept well.

Day 4 was an easy day, with a trek to the cliffs to the east of Fossil Bay (magnificent) and a bit of a scramble down the hill to see the shell fossils (and a roosting penguin which clever Stan spotted).  A lot of the hillside had been quarried for cement in the early 20s so how many millions of fossils were lost I hate to think, but each layer reveals another million years worth; mind-boggling.  From there it was an easy walk across the hills, past the small airstrip and the very interesting old cemetery to Darlington where we had another tasty lunch, courtesy of Zane, and then read some of the collection of books about the history of the island, while we waited for the afternoon ferry.

It was wonderful to return to our little nest, which was waiting for us in a field behind the Spring Bay Hotel, but despite the cold and the wind we wouldn't have missed the walk for quids.  A big thank you to Stan and Zane for their care and attention - they not only walked all day, as we did, but then prepared, served and washed up all meals, put up and pulled down tents, carried our packs, and answered all our questions.  The holy grail of bird watching on the island is the Forty Spotted Pardalote, and many people go there simply to find it.  However, we had one come to us, perch on a branch in the middle of the path, and allow us a good look before it flitted away; without Zane's knowledge it would have been simply a pretty little bird, but he was tickled pink to see it himself and we had boasting rights back at the Penitentiary!

It's taken a couple of days for the hips, knees and ankles to return to normal (whatever that is at this age) but we'll always remember our special time on Maria Island, and the many birds and animals we encountered along the way.  Did I mention the lone seal we saw frolicking in the waters off the Fossil Cliffs?  Or the 2 Tiger Snakes we encountered on the tracks?  Or the graceful gannets diving for fish.  Or the Tasmanian Native Hen's 3 new born chicks, one of which we saw emerging from the egg?  Or the yellow tailed black cockatoos?  Or the Forester kangaroos and Bennetts wallabies?

Here endeth the lesson on Maria Island.  If I don't post this right now I'll only think of another page of exciting things I need to share!

Sally (and photographer Ray) xx

Freycinet

Part of the track to the Wineglass Bay Lookout

Ray at Wineglass Bay Lookout

Beautiful Wineglass Bay from the Lookout

Walk from Wineglass Bay to Hazards Beach via the Isthmus Track

Walking down to Hazards Beach

A pretty beach through the trees on the Isthmus Track

Wallaby love

View from the Cape Tourville Lighthouse Lookout

Richardson's Beach (in front of our campground) looking towards The Remarkables

Panorama of Coles Bay from Freycinet Lodge verandah

Lunch yesterday at Freycinet Lodge, looking back towards Coles Bay

It's been a short stay at Freycinet this time (only 3 days) but I wanted to show you the best of Freycinet before we start off on our 4-day Maria Island walk on Friday.  Can't get your Freycinet mixed up with your Maria Island!

The National Park campground here was almost deserted on our first day/night but today there are vans, caravans and cars going left, right and centre.  The campground is well run and within a minute or so walk of Richardson's beach, and about a 10 minute walk through bushland to a well stocked IGA at Coles Bay.  We've discovered Connoisseur Salted Caramel ice cream there, which is worth the walk each day.  Unfortunately it's only sold in small tubs so we've just had to share!

It's still not swimming weather here (when is it?) though it's doubtful if either of us would set foot in the water here, with a 5.5 metre Great White having been sighted in the Bay only a week or so back.  (I kid you not, it was in the local paper).

Yesterday, before we checked into the campground, we drove to Cape Tourville, easily one of the loveliest views on the east coast, though the photo perhaps doesn't do it justice.  It's a 5km drive up a narrow, winding road, but definitely worth the effort.  There have been a few whales sighted travelling back down the coast to their Antarctic home, but we didn't spot any that day.

Today we packed up early and drove to the start of the Wineglass Bay walk.  It's approximately 3km from the campground to the walk, but on such a narrow, unsafe road that it would be suicide to walk or bike it, especially with the cavalier way motorists treat the road.  There's plenty of parking for large vehicles, so we left early and breakfasted in the car park before the walk.

It's approximately 1 hour's walk to the lookout and then another 30 minutes down to Wineglass Bay, but the steepness of the track is such that coming back up is a difficult climb, so we chose instead to take the lower Isthmus track via Hazards Beach back to the car park.  It was only another 8 kilometres (3 hours estimated) for the return trip, not much in terms of Favourite Daughter's 100km run last weekend, but it seemed interminable.  There are very few markers along the way to give you an idea of how far you have come, and each time we rounded a corner, I expected it to be the last, but no.  In the end it was just a case of one foot in front of the other and keep on plodding, and we finally completed the round trip in 1 1/2 hours longer than the estimate!  There was satisfaction of a kind once we got back to the van (and stopped at the Freycinet Lodge for a little light sustenance).

We've been assured that the 4-day Maria Island walk we're embarking on this Friday is an easy, guided walk, complete with glamour camping (glamping), candle-lit dinners and all food and wine provided.  If it turns out to be anything like today's walk, I think Ray will be calling the Rescue Helicopter!

We'll be out of touch (we think anyway) for the time we're on Maria Island, but are really looking forward to hearing the history and seeing the sights with a local guide.  Wish us luck!

Sally and Ray

Beautiful Bicheno

The sun is shining, the rain has gone, and Bicheno has been a wonderful 4 days of walking, cycling, talking to locals and just absorbing the beauty all around.  I thought that rather than my wittering on about our time here, the only true way to show you is with a series of Ray's excellent photos.

These beautiful yellow roses were blooming almost sight-unseen outside the Library.

Wallaby Salami anyone?  It's a bit hard to buy it after you see all the cute wallabies locally. 

White faced heron waiting for a fish.

Looking back at Peggy's Point.

Lots of bees working around these very ordinary "pig face" flowers.

Typical rock formations around the shoreline, with red algae which seems to occur all around Tasmania.

Ray found the native grasses very photogenic.

Panorama of Waub's Bay (named after a local aboriginal woman, Waubadebar whose bravery in rescuing two whalers earned her an enduring place in the local story).

Main Street, Bicheno, on Sunday afternoon!

Local church truly ecumenical, shared between Catholics, Anglican and Uniting - not all at the same time of course.

Bicheno Community Church.

Wonderful bakery; good coffee, scallop pies and jelly cakes!

One of the best Deli/Butcheries in Tasmania.  They sell wallaby salami though!

The Log Cabin; they sell everything you can think of and some you can't!

Pastini's Italian Cafe/Restaurant; also excellent coffee and pastries.

Controlled burn behind the town on a Sunday.  Everything we own now smells of smoke!

The Blowhole from a distance.  Wonderful rock formations.

The Blowhole in action; not much action there because of the calm seas, but it comes in with a satisfying noise anyway.

View over Bicheno from Whalers Lookout - with the view of the ocean from the other side of the lookout, the whales didn't have a chance!

The Gulch - the only sheltered harbour in Bicheno.  The outer rocks contain thousands of nesting terns, and a small rock to the right of the picture is a gathering place for fur seals.

Pelargoniums gone wild; they are all over the hillsides.

Foreshore walk to the Blowhole.

We're currently at Freycinet, thinking of doing the Wineglass Bay walk tomorrow.  It's windy but sunny, so all's right with the world.

Back in Range

Binalong Bay, Northern Bay of Fires

Superb Wrens sitting on our bike cover

Jeanneret Beach, Bay of Fires

Two happy pelicans at Musselroe Bay

Apologies for the length of time between blogs this time, but we have been out of range (yes I’m talking about you Telstra – where’s the NBN when you need it?) for a few days, which means no SMH, no phone coverage, and no internet! 

We stayed several nights at the Bay of Fires, named by Captain Furneaux who, from his ship, saw smoke from fires at Aborigines’ campsites, hence the name.  It’s a beautiful conservation area with several different campsites less than a kilometer from the road – Swimcart Beach, Jeanneret Beach and Cosy Corner being just a few, where 2 Superb wrens spent all afternoon attacking our windows.  The little brown female did most of the attacking, under the direction of the beautiful blue male.  

The first day, on Swimcart Beach, I was really tempted to don the togs and venture into the calm, emerald green water for a swim.  However, by the time I prevaricated about going in, the whole scene had changed with strong winds, and large waves.  We were warned by a local not to swim there as there are (fairly) frequent drownings.  The beach is very steep, and there is a huge drop off just where the waves roll onto the beach, with a big undertow.  You’d have to have absolutely perfect conditions there to venture into the water – and they don’t last long – though I think summer would offer kinder conditions.

After 2 nights at Swimcart and 1 at  Cosy Corner, we headed south to St Helens on Georges Bay for restocking.  St Helens has 2 IGAs(?) a pharmacy, several small bakery/cafes and sundry beachwear shops.  It has been our base in the east, as otherwise it’s just the occasional corner shop and not many of them.  Our other staple, water, is also available at St Helens, so we filled our tanks – both water and diesel, and set off north west along the A3, taking a side trip to Pyengana and the Holy Cow Café.  Pyengana cheese is rightly famous down here, and we bought enough (after a yummy tasting) to do us for a goodly while.  We also had lunch at the Holy Cow to sit a while by their open fire and watch the drizzle outside. 

In many ways this area reminds us of the Highlands of Scotland.  The constant mist, grey skies but emerald green hillsides dotted with black and white cows, the narrow winding roads and the cold.  We overnighted at the top of the Weldborough Pass in a huge paddock behind the 1886 Weldborough Pub, which markets itself as “the worst little pub in Australia”.  We really can’t vouch for that; having eaten breakfast at Binalong Bay, and lunch at The Holy Cow, we didn’t exactly feel like a night out at a pub!  I went for a walk in the afternoon and counted no less than 12 houses in the town; at least 2 of them For Sale!  Would you believe the only other caravan in the field belonged to 2 travellers from, where else, Raby Bay!

Only an hour or so from Weldborough lies a pretty little, well kept town called Derby.  Derby was the centre of the eastern tin mining industry in the late 1800s and has an excellent Tin Mine Centre.  We watched a video presentation of the history of the town, telling of the Chinese and other migrants who played a key role in the mining industry, and the ultimate destruction of most of the town, with resultant loss of life, in 1929 when the dam burst after massive rains.  It’s yet another interesting part of the history of Australia which is never taught in schools, but well worth reading.  (Sorry I can’t detail more of it here, but I’m sure Google would help).

After spending the morning in Derby we backtracked a few kilometres for the turnoff to Musselroe Bay in the far north east, taking an unsealed but generally good road from Gladstone to our current position alongside Musselroe Bay.  Once again we are the only people camped here – lucky it’s still early in the season.  There are quite a few houses here, mostly I think, holiday homes.  We’re surrounded by trees but the wind has abated quite a bit, the sun is shining and the sky is blue so all is right with the world.

After setting up, we went for a short walk along the narrow sandy beach beside the Bay, spotting some pelicans further down the shore.  Ray was disappointed when they took off almost as soon as we set foot on the beach, but far from disappearing over the horizon, they flew towards us and landed nearby, perhaps mistaking us for fishermen.  Then the 2 pelicans whose photos we’ve included, gave the most breathtaking display for around 15 minutes, flying in unison above and around us, seeming to enjoy every moment.  Lucky we have a digital camera, as Ray took hundreds of photos of them.  Trying to decide which one to put onto the blog was quite a task!

We hope to spend a few days here, perhaps sampling some of the other campsites, and Mt William National Park.  We’re only limited by the amount of water we carry; between 4-6 days if we’re careful.  The other essential is diesel – not only for powering the engine, but powering our wonderful diesel heater.  I was skeptical about its necessity when Ray was having it installed at great cost, but it really has been an excellent addition to our comfort.  One memorable night our tank dropped below one quarter and the heater safety switch cut out!  Merde!!!  We’ll never do that again.

Sally (and not forgetting Monsieur, who takes marvelous pictures)

PS  Our plans have changed once again, with inclement weather at Musselroe Bay.  We were heading for Tomahawk along the road to Bridport, but having to traverse about 20 kilometres of corrugated dirt road in the wet, we opted instead for heading back to St Helens and points south east.  We spent one delightful night at Stumpy's Bay campground, which was awash with Bennett's wallabies, all females with tiny babies aboard, where once again we bumped into locals (Wynnum); the only other people in the campground.  Tonight we're back at Swimcart Beach, and may head on south to St Mary's and Bicheno, or else just frowst here for a couple of days and try to wait out the coming rain.