Breaking free at last

Coachwood Pool, Bellbird Campground, Washpool National Park

Middle of nowhere

Wednesday:  We left beautiful Broom’s Head rather reluctantly this morning, but as the day started slightly overcast and with a cool wind, we decided to avoid the coming rain and head west. 

Tonight we’re camped, with only one other van, in Bellbird Campground in Washpool National Park.  We headed west from Grafton on the Gwydir Highway, and after a very hilly and slow trip through Jackadgery and Cangai, we turned onto 4km of dirt road leading to one of the prettiest little campgrounds ever.  We have our own bush surroundings and campfire with abundant wood supplied, so although we cooked inside, we had drinks and nibbles outside by by a roaring fire.

There’s no phone coverage (even with Telstra), therefore no internet and no communication.  SO, what to do with the night hours?  We’ve had a delightful evening, playing Rummy Tile (Rummy Kub, Rummikins) taught to us by some American sailors at Lizard Island.  It’s a very intense numbers game with much forward planning, therefore Ray almost always wins; however it’s so enjoyable that I really don’t mind.  The game’s the thing!

And, as it’s still too early to turn in, we are sitting inside in the warm, Ray reading his book and me embroidering.  Now I remember what family life was like in the 50s!  I love not having any television (or any radio) – and a short break from political news is very welcome!

This afternoon we went on a walk down to Coachwood pool via the Lyrebird Walk.  Last time we were here we saw several lyrebirds, but this time though we didn’t see any, we were treated to a 5-minute concert of lyrebird calls.  At first we couldn’t work out what sorts of birds we were hearing until we realized that all the sounds came from the lyrebirds, which are great mimics. The only 3 calls I could identify were black cockatoos, willy wagtails and currawongs, all coming from the same bird!

Thursday:  Middle of nowhere.

After another walk to Coachwood Pool in the early morning (no lyrebirds this time) we headed to Glen Innes for a few supplies.  The difference between coast and country is truly amazing; Glen Innes is freezing - we were told that it rarely gets above 10 during the day at this time of year.  Will have to look out gloves and beanies if this is to continue.  

We decided to stop overnight at Sinclair Lookout, about 15km out of Glen Innes towards Inverell.  The stopping place designated on the Hema Maps book didn't look right, so we headed on up a small dirt road, searching for the promised lookout.  About a kilometre into the climb we decided that we were probably misguided, but eventually came to a lovely cleared area looking out over rolling farmland, so decided to stay here the night anyway.  I've just been for a long walk further along the dirt track and it comes to an abrupt stop where a massive tree has fallen across the road, so goodness knows where it leads eventually.  Anyway, in spite of the cold and the wind we've decided to stop here for the night.  We have full internet coverage so can pick up any messages and phone calls; last night's isolation didn't last!  

Tomorrow, who knows?  Inverell certainly, and Warialda to visit a cousin, but further than that is a mystery.

Sally and Ray