Wednesday, 28 May 2014

Rock, Desert, Camels



Part of the walking track round the base of Uluru (348 metres high with a girth of 9.4km)


Reverse side of Uluru, half way round the track

This is the Uluru climb, (un)fortunately closed because of wind

The desert is blooming because of recent rain

The obligatory sunset view of Uluru


The Olgas, 40 ams east of The Rock (Kata Tjuta = "many heads")

My favourite view of the Olgas

Part of the walking track through the Olgas

View of the Olgas (Kata Tjuta) from Karingana  Lookout

Myrtle, at 40 the oldest camel in the fleet 

Connor, our trusted steed, and Myrtle, the next in line

Late afternoon camel train, Uluru

Sunset over the desert

Connor, (he's the good looking one on the left)

Sunset viewing of Uluru, with Grey Nomads

Wow, where to start???  This is such a magnificent part of Australia, and one we're both glad to have experienced.

The arrival of Europeans in the area was part of the exploration of the Centre during the 1870s, though Aborigines are believed to have inhabited the area for at least 20,000 years.

Ernest Giles travelled through the area in 1872 and named both Lake Amadeus and Mount Olga.  Giles returned to the area in 1873 but was beaten to Uluru by William Gosse, who sighted the monolith on 19th July and named it after the Chief Secretary of South Australia, Sir Henry Ayers.  Giles also was the first European to climb the rock, which he did accompanied by an Afghan camel driver (as usual, name unknown!)

Ayers Rock was created a national park in 1950 and in 1958, the Rock was combined with the Olgas to form the Ayers Rock National Park.  In 1985 the title to the rock was handed back to the traditional owners who, in turn, granted the Australian National Parks and Wildlife Service a 99 year lease on the park.

The Rock is every bit as beautiful as you would expect, and we were fortunate that our sunset viewing evening was one of the best of our 4 days here.  However, Kata Tjuta, approximately 40 ams east of Uluru, is equally as spectacular; it is a group of more than 36 rounded red domes, the tallest around 546 metres high.  Apart from the Uluru climb, there is only one 10.5 km walking/cycling track around the base of the Rock, whereas Kata Tjuta has an 11.5 hike through the centre (The Valley of the Winds), although we only hiked around 2.6 kilometres to Karingana lookout, which was truly breathtaking.  The track is steep and rocky in places, and the track beyond Karu Lookout (No. 1) lookout is closed at 11 am when the forecast is 36 C or above.

On our second to last evening, we took the Evening Sunset Camel Tour out into the desert. The young, enthusiastic cameleers were very professional and there was much to-ing and fro-ing about matching people to camels.  There were only 2 people allowed a camel to themselves, one young, rather heavy, girl who was directed to a camel at the rear of one of the trains (each consisting of about  9 camels), and one of our party, a slight older lady who was rewarded with Mrytle, the oldest camel in the pack and therefore entitled to a light ride.  We were somewhere in the middle on Connor, a young, previously wild, camel caught at Mt Connor not far from here.  We were taken on a gentle, swaying ride out for an hour out into the desert to a hill where we got to watch both Uluru and a beautiful sunset before padding gently back to the Farm.  Along the way, a guide walking beside each train presented us with lots of facts about camels and the local area.  Ray and I got the giggles a couple of times, one when told that a taipan's venom could kill 38 elephants (how was this determined and where did they find the elephants?) and two that "camels don't go to the bathroom while they are walking"; I had the startling thought that I might rock up to the toilet block and find it already filled with camels!!  On our return to the farm at twilight, we enjoyed beer, wine and outback bush foods, including a wonderful damper (thought you might like to try their recipe, below).

The Yulara campground is as busy as a beehive, with lots of to-ing and fro-ing of caravans and campers.  It is around 10 minutes walk from the main Yulara Resort but campers are welcome to bring themselves and their money to the resort which has a couple of restaurants, bistros and lots of shops (including, unexpectedly, an IGA).  There is a shuttle bus which calls in at 20 minute intervals and transports visitors around the resort and campground.  The pool at the campground is very welcome at the end of a hot day, and is big enough for a decent swim - providing there are no small people there at the same time.  Everything is well run and there are enough showers, toilets and washing machines for the number of visitors, which is a welcome change.  The camp sites are large and mostly tree-ed, though with very little grass, which is to be expected.  We've had a wonderful time here and could easily stay another week.

However, Kings Canyon calls, and then Alice Springs, so we leave tomorrow for adventures new.


Recipe Homemade Beer Bread (courtesy of Uluru Camel Tours - camels not obligatory)

Ingredients:  3 cups self raising flour, 1 can beer, pinch salt and sugar, 1/4 cup water, 1 Tablespoon seasoning (linseeds or poppy seeds).
Mix ingredients in a bowl with hand - don't knead.  Grease 2 loaf tins and pour dough (should be sloppy, not dry) into tins.  Sprinkle with grated cheese, bran or sesame seeds.  Bake in hot oven 375 F/190 C) for 45 minutes or till golden.  Let cool before cutting.  ENJOY.

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